And your ears shall hear…

Without realizing it, we’ve quickly approached my favorite beer season of the year; and that is the limited run of Marzens and Festbiers that get released in August in anticipation of Germany’s Oktoberfest.

Last year, I wanted to take a step back on my drinking, but recognized in doing so that I missed out on several of my previous favorites including Foxtown and Cary Ale House’s entries.  This year, I am determined to keep closer tabs on these, but also attempt to try some other brands that I’ve missed previously.

From what I’ve been reading, it seems like Oktoberfest will be split decisively among the Marzen-styled beers that have been a tradition of true German Oktoberfests and lighter Festbiers that have been made to accommodate those who don’t appreciate the heavier beer styles like Marzen.

I was lucky enough to find a “year-round” Oktoberfest Marzen at Water Street Brewing in Grafton, WI in late June; and really enjoyed it. I am hoping to encounter a bottle or can ‘in-season’ to be able to give it a proper capsule entry during this span…

For my money, Ayinger remains an all-time favorite Oktoberfest beer; and sets the standard of all I enjoy in this beer style.  It is a shame that it only keeps until about Thanksgiving; but it is the reason I circle the first weekend in August each year as I start trying to load up on this beer style.

Wed., Aug. 7, 2024 10:25 pm.  – Around the Bend Oktoberfiesta: Marzen Lager with Pasilli Chili & Epazote – 16 oz.can – 6%

My first trip to Binny’s only revealed the obvious Oktoberfests: Ayinger, Samuel Adams, and Shiner. The only one I hadn’t tried in the display was by Around the Bend, so I picked up a 4-pak along with some Ayinger and brought it back.  It’s probably a good thing that I didn’t read the label too closely as the ‘chili and epazote’ notes probably would’ve steered me away and into starting this off with a more familiar beer.  

As I drink this, however, it has the external characteristics of a high quality Marzen (copper color, some heft, a creamy mouthfeel); but drinks like a Newcastle Nut Brown Ale.  It tastes really good and is satisfying, but my unsophisticated palate didn’t catch the suggested notes. Instead it came up a little nutty and a little bitter overall. I do like this, but was hoping for something either a little more bready or with a sweeter note to kick this off.  Even if not the top of style, I know that these four cans will go quickly.

Fri., Aug. 9, 2024  9:57 pm. – Potosi Oktoberfest: Marzen-style Lager – 12 oz. can – 5.5%

While in the Milwaukee suburbs, I got to make a stop at Total Wine and Spirits which feels a little like the Rolling Stones record shop (in Norridge, IL) of alcohol.  In my enthusiasm (or stupidity); I decided to grab a few different types of Oktoberfest, and made out like the town drunk in a black-and-white sitcom of the mid-’50’s carrying the stash in several bags.  This is my first exposure to Potosi Brewing; and the pour came out perfectly despite the can feeling a little small for 12 oz.  It poured a nice caramel color with a decent foaminess to it. I like that it is a little sweet-forward with the creamy mouthfeel characteristic shared by most of my favorites in this beer style. I appreciate the simpler quality of this, though it does get a little richer if you work through the glass a sip at a time. Definitely sweet at the start, but there is a slightly bitter aftertaste. While I don’t taste pumpkin or squash in this; there is something weird that happens as you get to the end of the sip where this has a drier and more astringent quality.  This is a pretty easy drinker and would be fairly easy to get accustomed to that after taste.

Sat., Aug 10, 2024   2:40 pm – Broken Bat Brewing Co. Mr. Octoberfest: German Marzen – 12 oz. can – 5.7%

Leave it to a baseball-themed brewing company to tie in the legendary story of Reggie Jackson earning his “Mr. October” nickname into the development of an Oktoberfest beer. In this instance, they designate this as a German Marzen, but by taste I’m betting it is not following the Reinheitsgebot standard. Despite a bubbly carbonated copper-colored pour; this one was a bit rough for me. Did I not pour it myself, I would’ve thought someone disintegrated a bag of salted peanuts and then integrated that dust into a Fat Tire Amber Ale and then let it sit outside for a few hours.  The nutty taste hits early and then leaves a bitter and sour aftertaste that I really didn’t find pleasing. If you like nutty rather than bread-y or caramel-sweet; then this will work for you… it just didn’t for me.

Sun., Aug. 11, 2024   9:49 pm – McFleshman’s Oktoberfest – 12 oz. can – 5.5%

Another of the Total Wine pick-ups is this entry out of Appleton, WI.  Not really identifying as either a Marzen or Festbier; it does have a richness that more resembles the former. Also pouring a carbonated copper quality. What I appreciated most were the pict-o-grams on the back of the can saying this should be poured in a glass stein at 50 degrees Fahrenheit.  Despite the bitterness, the breads and caramel-like qualities become more noticeable as the beer warms up. It also gets a little chewy, for lack of a better way to describe it.  Because I had poured it ice cold into a black Solo cup; I feel as though I messed with its presentation.  Still, this was a crisp and refreshing entry. Looking forward to having another soon.

Mon., Aug. 12, 2024   4:58 pm – Erdinger Oktoberfest Weissbier (Hefeweizen) – 12 oz. bottle -5.7%

Picked a single bottle of this, and wishing I had gone deeper.  This pour was a lighter color but equally as frothy.  At first, I thought I was in for a very astringent and basic beer, but this was really crisp and satisfying. According to Untappd, Erdinger’s entry follows the Bavarian purity laws (Reinheitsgebot) that set the Oktoberfest standard.  Quite refreshing with a bread taste in the opening of the sip and a clean finish.  We have a new leader, and hope to find more of this while we’re in season.

Tues., Aug. 13, 2024  6:30 pm – Shiner Oktoberfest Marzen-Style Lager – 12 oz. bottle – 5.7%

Remembered this from seasons past, and found a single bottle so I could jog my memory. Love the festive colors and the frothy popcorn-colored pour with the bread-y scent.  The taste is a little pine-ier than I remember it, but retains a dark-bread character with a slightly hoppy and bitter finish. Solid, but found this to be a middling entry. Perfectly fine in an absence of options; but as so many entries hit the market, this just doesn’t seem as special as it looks.

Wed., Aug. 21, 2024 7:35 pm – Steel Tank Brewing Oktoberfest – 14 oz tap

Imagine my surprise as we start setting up a PA system for a Harley-Davidson dealership event in Oconomowoc, WI and see a beer truck with a larger trailer pull up beside us. Of course I didn’t know it until they were parked, plugged in, and setting up their signage. A trailer that offered at least 10 cold-keg fresh offerings, I was really happy to see an Oktoberfest on offer. Since Steel Tank only serves in its tap room or through its event truck; I was even happier when they gave me the first one to “try out” in exchange for some kind words about them during the performance. From first to last sip, I have to say that Steel Tank was quality; and though there may be demand for cans and growlers; I really don’t know how well this would’ve traveled outside the keg.  It was a darker brown color in a plastic cup. It had decent heft with a creamy mouthfeel. Even at the cooler temperature there was a strong malty quality to this that somehow finished clean. While I was lucky enough to be able to have a few over the course of the performance; in my mind I’ve been secretly plotting a reason to get back to Oconomowoc before the season ends to have a little more.

Fri., Aug 30, 2024  7:16 pm – Bell’s Octoberfest Beer Marzen – 12 oz can

After realizing that a last-minute gig opportunity was going to fall through; I came home looking forward to having few responsibilities and getting a start on some of the other Oktoberfests I had picked up earlier in the week.  Bell’s is in a new can, but feels somewhat familiar. Can definitely taste the hops and it has a nice heft and carbonation to it. Unfortunately, aside from the hops there isn’t a lot of flavor to this. It starts a little bitter and has a finish like grandpa’s beer. Kind of a grass and cigar smoke mixture.  I wonder if this may have been left in the heat too long between the delivery truck and its appearance in the store display.  Not the worst I’ve had, but expected better.

Sun., Sept 1, 2024  11:05 pm – Lakefront Brewery Oktoberfest Marzen Lager – 12 oz. c

If given the choice of a Friday or a Monday off, I will always take a Monday. Capping off a nice holiday weekend with an adult beverage and some good instrumental taste. This is one of several from a recent pick-6 from Binny’s.  Though the color and the heft are spot on; something about this is a little off. It is a little grassy and finishes a little astringent.in relation to my taste. Even a little bit of a salty snack didn’t improve it. This would’ve benefited from a little sweetness or aiming for a more bread-y profile. 

Tues., Sept. 3, 2024   5:15 pm – Revolution Brewing Oktoberfest German-style Lager – 12 oz. can

After a fairly easy day, I decided to pop open a beer and settle in for the evening. This poured like a soda and initially seemed pale; but gradually filled to a nice dark yellow popcorn seed color with a healthy heft and carbonation. Revolution is a brewer that likes to make its own rules; but in this case, it is every bit comparable to a Märzen style while maintaining a uniquely malt-and-hops-forward flavor that finishes cleanly. Despite its initial pineiness, I’m enjoying this and kind of surprised at how traditional this one felt.

Thurs., Sept 5, 2024  5:19 pm – Crystal Lake Brewing Oktoberfest German-style Oktoberfest Lager – 12 oz can

Finding some familiarity with another local entry that has been part of this list the past few years. Memories of this are kind of neutral at best; but the can art is pretty cool; and the fact that I could ride a bicycle to where it was brewed does give it a step up in my hunting and gathering for this year’s roundup. A promising copper-colored pour with a decent heft and a creamy taste. The front of the sip is caramel-ly sweet and bread-y; but the finish is a little sharp and pine-y for me. Had this finished more cleanly, it would’ve been a top-5 candidate for sure.

Mon., Sept 9, 2024  5:25 pm – Fox River Brewing Company (Oshkosh/Appleton) Foxtoberfest German-Styled Marzen – 12 oz. can

This was one of several pickups from Total Wine on my way to a gig in West Allis this past weekend. I thought the art on the can was clever and thought maybe this was local from the microbrewery near me in McHenry. (It wasn’t). While it is a little sour and earthy, nearly everything else from carbonation to color to mouthfeel was about as perfect as it gets from pour to sip. Unfortunately, I was slightly put off by the earthy malt taste here; preferring either a sweeter or a more bread-y profile and a cleaner finish. While not a favorite, it does go down pretty easily, and it wouldn’t be difficult to adjust to drinking this one more regularly.

Tues., Sept 10, 2024  6:15 pm – Capital Brewery Oktoberfest Marzen-style Lager – 12 oz. can – 5.5 ABV

Decided to kick back a cold one before getting ready to prepare dinner; and probably should’ve made it two. Holy cow, did this go down fast!! Crisp, amber-tinted, bread-malt carbonated sweetness. Clean, crisp, and thoroughly enjoyable, making this a really easy drinker in this category. While it goes too fast to match the flavors of the finer Märzen and Märzen-styled examples, this was a welcome entry to this year’s roundup. Looking forward to the next one.

Wed., Sept 11, 2024  5:48 pm – Benediktiner Festbier Lager – 16 oz. can – 

Straight from Germany to the can to my cup. Perhaps there are steins full of this in the Bavarian hinterlands to celebrate the season; but I’m completely missing whatever it is that makes it special. From the potentially vulgar name of this entry to the light-colored, heavily carbonated pour, this drinks a lot like Grandpa’s beer and has me thinking of a vintage Old Style or Drewry’s as I remembered it from can to glass in the late ’70s. There is a little malt at the front of the sip, and it does finish cleanly. Still, if I hadn’t poured it from the can myself, I would never have thought this was a fit for the seasonal styles of Oktoberfest or Festbier.

Thurs., Sept 12, 2024  6:16 pm – Third Space Oktober Fest Marzen-style Lager – 12 oz can – 6.0 ABV

It was cold and poured with great promise; but this is nuttier than a Newcastle Brown Ale. I love the name Third Space, as it seems to refer to the idea of the place you stop between work and going home. Unfortunately, that salted peanut quality wrecks everything and makes me think of the Budweiser riddle. “Why was Budweiser made from rice? (Answer) Because they couldn’t use sand.” I prefer bready or sweet, but nutty definitely pits this among the worst beers in this roundup.

Sat., Sept. 14, 2024  10:45 pm – Fermentorium Oktoberfest German-style Lager – 16 oz can

Bumped into the Fermentorium a couple of years ago while in pursuit of Foxtown Brewing’s Oktoberfest entry. At the time, they had sold out of their ‘take-out’ selection of Oktoberfest, so I ended up having to make do with a live round on tap onsite; and I wrote about it using my phone. It was one of my more awkward entries; but I didn’t leave empty-handed, as I was able to pick up a 4-pack of their Hefeweizen-styled beer on that visit. Today, I made the drive north of Milwaukee to ensure that I was able to secure Foxtown for this season’s roundup… and decided to pop into the Fermentorium on my way to pick up a couple of 4-packs. I brought a cooler and ice packs to ensure cool travel from their chiller until it could get in my refrigerator. While it poured nicely, and the 16 oz can felt hefty in my hand; the home experience wasn’t as good as I remembered the live tap one. While the carbonation is evident, it felt like it went flat quickly, and the malt/hop mixture ended up somewhat bitter and a little overwhelming. I can tell this was worked on and had decent ingredients; but the final product had an unrelenting flavor that never quite cleared between sips.

Mon., Sept. 16, 2024  6:15 pm – Foxtown Brewing Oktoberfest German-style Seasonal – 12 oz can

My first exposure to Foxtown Brewing was at the Cedarburg Arts and Wine Festival several years back. I got a tap and enjoyed it as we walked up and down Washington Street to check out the shops, the outdoor stalls, the bands, and even a new model Subaru Forester. I remembered that beer so fondly, and I was lucky to be able to pick up a few six-packs along the way and even have a tapped glass inside the pub during a previous year’s visit. I was so happy to be able to snag a couple of six-packs this year, but something has changed. It is drier and nuttier than I remember it being. It is a little bitter but finishes cleanly. Though I ensured I’d get it from cold to cold, it didn’t seem to matter here. I don’t hate it, but this is not the taste I remember or would boat-anchor through my Saturday to acquire. Maybe I need another tapped beer to jog the memory; but this just feels a little off compared to previous years.

Fri., Sept 20, 2024   10:09 pm – Cary Ale House – Das Bier Von Satan – 32 oz crowler – 5.9 ABV

Last year, I was really bummed that I got shut out at Cary Ale House, so after work today I headed directly to Sew Hop’d, Scorched Earth, and the Cary Ale House to ensure I got this season’s Oktoberfest entries. Cary’s entry tends to finish in the top 5 each year, and it does have the unique advantage of being a tapped beer that is canned and crimped directly in front of you. A 32 oz pour, though, is a lot for one guy (and harder to waste)… but I bought one for this review and am saving one for a later time when I can share it with friends. I made sure this made it directly from venue to cooler to refrigerator before enjoying. It was a pretty cool experience to pop the top of this oil can and pour a magnificent copper-carbonated nectar that smelled of malt and bread. The first sip is a little sweet, but also very full of its nose qualities as well. It had a noticeably creamy mouthfeel, yet still finished cleanly. This is the only one I’ve had that matches up to my beloved Ayinger and the Steel Tank entry this season. While I wouldn’t recommend taking down 32 oz of it by yourself, this is as good as it gets in the Märzen style.

Sun., Sept 22, 2024  8:12 pm – Sew Hop’d Oktoberfest German Style Marzen Lager – 16 oz. can – 6.2 ABV

Winding down my week after a nice day with this entry from Sew Hop’d. There was a noticeable improvement from years past to last season’s entry; and I am unsure if they are still improving their processes, or if my taste profile is finally catching up to the intentions of their product. This poured a coffee color with a bit of carbonation and a sweet, bready scent. On the sip, I’m noticing a creamy mouthfeel, the malt, and a bitter dark chocolate note. I am sensing a little hint of coffee in this as well, but not enough to offend or confuse me. The cold is not affecting the bitterness, but I could imagine that this beer may get a little chewier as it warms. I’m really enjoying this one.

Thur., Sept 26, 2024  5:47 pm – Scorched Earth Oktoberfest German Style Lager – 16 oz can – 

It’s been a heck of a work week, and I just haven’t had the opportunity to settle in and enjoy an adult beverage with the frequency I’d like. Changed today as I got home and immediately popped open this pint can of Algonquin’s finest. A popcorn-seed orange color is well covered by a healthy foam head, and the bubbles of carbonation are nearly tactile after this pour. The taste is quite good. Slightly darker bread quality with a creamy mouthfeel, a quick hit of malt/hops, and a clean finish. This is the perfect Oktoberfest starter beer for someone who hasn’t had the experience. I shouldn’t penalize the simplicity of this as it is very good and among the best of the locals that I’ve experienced this season.

Sun., Sept. 29, 2024  8:26 pm – Great Lakes Oktoberfest – 12 oz can – 6.5 ABV

Poured a thick carbonated amber from can to glass. While not the best way to deal with the Sunday scaries after getting Laurie to her car to get home and eventually myself to bed, I knew it had been a few days since I’d tried an entry for the list and wanted to get one in for the weekend. It starts off a little sweet and malty, turns a bit earthy/grassy, and then finishes with a slight aftertaste. I’ve had mixed experiences with Great Lakes, feeling they make a quality product that, aside from the Elliot Ness, haven’t really caught on for me. I respect the heck out of them. If not for the taste flip midway through the sip and the aftertaste, this would be a lot easier (and more dangerous) to drink. It’s a little more complex than I am.

 Tues., Oct. 1, 2024  6:27 pm – Firestone-Walker Oaktoberfest Oak Aged Lager – 12 oz can

Was a long day at work, and I decided after settling in to pop one open and document. This is one that has been part of previous seasons, and I seemed to remember having a fondness for this one last time. The oak casking does take some edge off of this, but what is left is a decent, drinkable beer with the aftertaste of a heavier spirit. It’s the right color and carbonation; but the oak has seemed to overtake any bready or malted qualities of this. I still enjoy this beer, but aside from name and color, it seems more a barrel-aged lager than a Märzen entry.

Wed., Oct. 2, 2024  6:23 pm – Holzlager Brewing Company Oktoberfest Marzen-styled Lager – 16 oz can

Stopped after work to grab a quick four-pack of my local. Got it home cold, and though it blew up like a lager volcano when I popped the top, I gathered the rest into a Solo cup and will comment on the remains… Looked and poured right, has a nice heft and a creamy mouthfeel. Unfortunately, this one has some slight coffee notes and a noticeable tree-nut flavor that is really messing with me. The aftertaste is a little smoky and tangy, almost like barbecue sauce, which leads me to believe the carbonation got messed up prior to opening or that this was stored improperly somewhere in the chain from brewing to register. I can’t imagine this is the taste Holzlager would want out in the field. In the past, Holzlager has generally fallen in the middle of the field; but this season’s entry won’t. Not the worst I’ve had, but this isn’t good. Oktoberfest is about bread-like qualities, perhaps a sweetness or a maltiness to it. Tree nuts and coffee go with baked goods, not my evening beer.

Sun., Oct. 6, 2024  8:22 pm – Hacker Pschorr Oktoberfest Marzen – 12 oz bottle

Finally, another German entry to consider for this year’s round. Hacker Pschorr has maintained a relatively consistent product over the years, and I remember really enjoying this entry in the past. Popped the cap and poured it into a cup, appreciating the heft and the darker brown color of this entry. This one feels malt-forward and a little sweeter than the last few beers I’ve tried. Midway through the sip, it gets a little earthy and finishes kind of smoky. I’m not sure how I feel about this one, but I’m also trying to remember that Hacker Pschorr also offers a Festbier entry and that this could easily be an old bottle. I don’t hate it, but it definitely has qualities of grandpa’s beer here; and the turn and finish are putting me off a little.

Thurs., Oct. 10, 2024 5:28 pm – Paulaner München Oktoberfest Märzen – 12 oz bottle

One of the Munich brewers, I’m always grateful that the original Märzens do get to us from the original region. Honoring the Reinheitsgebot standard, this initially kicks like a Grandpa’s beer. A few sips in, I started to enjoy the malts, the hops, and one of the crispest finishes I’ve encountered in the beer style. While I’ve always held a little grudge against Paulaner for being the Oktoberfest that survives long after the annual Ayinger run sells out, I will say I really enjoyed this one.

Mon., Oct. 14, 2024  6:40 pm – Hofbrau Oktoberfestbier – 12 oz bottle

It was a pretty forgettable Columbus Day ruined by having to wait all day for a car repair. So much for a day off. Realizing I don’t have time or resources to get too far in the time remaining today, I decided to spiritually crawl into a fetal position and nurse a beer to settle my self-pitying toxic backside. A bad day didn’t get better with this lighter version of grandpa’s beer that initially smelled like cat spray. If this is the festbier, I think I’d be horrified by the Märzen. I gave it a few minutes to settle, and it did; at least enough to chance a sip. It is a tangy, zingy, and sour kind of beer that adults used to let kids smell to prevent them from becoming curious about beer. Definitely a grandpa’s beer. The only good thing is that I’ve aged a little closer to this demographic since realizing this term a season or so ago. By the final sip, I realized this was far from the worst beer I’ve had in the round. While I would’ve liked something sweeter and breadier, it does have character. On the bright side, I did get to have a beer tonight.

FROM WORST TO FIRST:

BROKEN BAT BREWING – MR. OCTOBERFEST

THIRD SPACE OKTOBER FEST

BELL’S OCTOBERFEST BEER MARZEN

HOLZLAGER OKTOBERFEST

SHINER

BENEDIKTINER FESTBIER LAGER

AROUND THE BEND

LAKEFRONT BREWING

HOFBRAU OKETOBERFESTBIER

HACKER PSCHORR OKTOBERFEST MARZEN

THE FERMENTORIUM OKTOBERFEST

FIRESTONE WALKER OAKTOBERFEST

PAULANER MUNCHEN OKTOBERFEST MARZEN

FOX RIVER BREWING COMPANY FOXTOBERFEST

CRYSTAL LAKE BREWING

FOXTOWN BREWING 

POTOSI

GREAT LAKES

REVOLUTION BREWING

CAPITAL BREWING

McFLESHMAN’S

SEW HOP’D

ERDINGER

SCORCHED EARTH

STEEL TANK

CARY ALE HOUSE

After recognizing that I didn’t have a real problem with alcohol, I have decided to press forward with my third year of Oktoberfest reviews. I really enjoy this style of beer and look forward to the many options that become available to celebrate the German tradition. Though many domestic and independent brewers do not honor the original Reinheitsgebot standards or any set forth by the Club of Munich Brewers, I have previously enjoyed just how crafty these independents can be in crafting Märzens, Lagers, and other Festbier styles to fulfill their vision of a German festival beer.

James Wayman is a music enthusiast, collector, musician, and educator from the far northwestern suburbs of Chicago. You can follow, comment, and/or react to his ‘album a day’ capsules on Twitter/X at @SMFOBA51.